On the surface, Wiener schnitzel seems like a simple dish but there are various rules to follow which ensure that it tastes as good as possible. From the breadcrumbs used to the method of frying, here are my tips on making it perfect.
The meat: Veal escalopes are the way to go and they should be cut as thinly as possible and across the grain. It is also a good idea to bat them out at home with a meat tenderiser before coating them in breadcrumbs.
Breadcrumbs: Fresh breadcrumbs don't quite work here - they are too soft and don't develop the satisfying crunch that you get with dried ones. The breadcrumbs should also be fine in texture. I often give mine a quick blitz in a food processor to achieve this.
Egg wash: A splash of double cream in the beaten egg adds a luxurious richness and compliments the milky taste of the veal.
Cooking: I've found a mixture of
clarified butter and sunflower oil to be the best fats to cook the schnitzel. As the impurities have been removed from the butter, it can be heated to a much higher temperature without burning, meaning that the breadcrumbs have time to go crisp without acquiring those unattractive black flecks that often come hand in hand with cooking in butter.
A generous amount of fat is needed to cook the veal (around 0.5 cm) and if you need to keep it to one side whilst batch cooking, place it on a cooking rack under a low grill. This allows any excess fat to drip out, hence preventing the crust from becoming soggy.
Ingredients (Serves 2)
400g veal escalope, sliced thin and tenderised
80g fine, dried breadcrumbs
1 egg, beaten
1 tsp double cream
Flour, to dust
80ml sunflower oil
Method
Everything has to happen very quickly here, so set up your workstation. Place the flour in one dish, the egg and cream in another and finally the breadcrumbs in a large shallow dish, big enough to accommodate the veal.
Place the clarified butter and oil in a frying pan and heat to a high temperature. Test this by sprinkling in a few breadcrumbs - they should turn golden straight away. If batch cooking, switch the grill on to the lowest temperature.
Dust the veal in the flour and shake off any excess. Dip in the egg wash, letting any extra egg drip off before placing in the breadcrumbs, making sure the meat is evenly coated.
Place the veal in the frying pan and allow to cook for a couple of minutes. Whilst this is happening, use a table spoon and pour some of the fat over the veal, coating it entirely. This seals the breadcrumbs on top and lessens the risk of them separating from the meat.
Carefully flip the veal and cooking for a further 3 minutes. When flipping, tilt the pan so that the butter and oil run to one end, then the schnitzel won't land in half centimetre of hot fat. The schnitzel should be golden brown all over. Remove from the frying pan and place under the grill until ready to serve.
Mix any remaining breadcrumbs into the egg wash and fry as a fritter. If you have children, it can be fun to give out the 'fake schnitzel' as a reward. Leo has painful memories of fighting for it with his brothers.
We like to eat schnitzel with champ, sauerkraut and pickled red cabbage. Truffle mustard is more than a truffle expensive but completely divine, made and sold by
Fitz Fine Foods at Borough Market. Beer makes a good accompaniment. Leo likes a traditional German Pilsner or a nice cool IPA, whilst I like a crafted fruity beer. Put Schubert on Spotify, preferably the Winterreise.
